When most people think of the Italian island of Capri, images of grand bougainvillea-draped villas, pristine whitewashed streets, and luxury boutiques lining the city center immediately come to mind. But that’s only part of the story. Beyond the bustling tourist hotspots lies a rugged, wild side that offers a completely different experience.
My fourth hike on this craggy Mediterranean island took me along a six-kilometer cliffside path connecting the remains of three 19th-century Bourbon military outposts. As I navigated the rocky, rosemary-scented trail while dodging spiky prickly pears, I realized I had only seen one other person in two hours. The landscape was untouched, and water sources were scarce, with only a rustic fountain I encountered a kilometer back at Fort Mèsola providing any relief.
Formisano, a local guide, admits that Anacapri is not entirely free from overtourism. Popular sites like the Blue Grotto, Villa San Michele, and the chairlift to Monte Solaro often draw crowds. However, he points out that venturing westward, through the Boffe main quarter toward the lighthouse and the Migliera trail, reveals the island’s true soul.
This medium-difficulty trail runs along Anacapri’s western coast, stretching between the Blue Grotto and Punta Carena. It offers a peaceful escape for those willing to venture away from the crowds. Most trekkers start at the Blue Grotto, but it’s equally rewarding to begin from the other end and discover the island’s quieter side a place where nature’s beauty remains pristine and untouched.
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